So there is a crazy recipe that I am working on that might not make any sense or lead anywhere, but the experimental process along the way is fun to work through. Be on notice -this will be a long entry b/c there is a lot going on. By the way, this EXPERIMENTAL PRODUCT IS NOT AVAILABLE AT THE BAKERY.
This is an oven baked item modeled after monkey bread. Vida Shanley, pastry chef at SW restaurant at Wynn Las Vegas introduced me to monkey bread which is something mighty popular with the chefs. For anyone who doesn’t know (like me a few weeks ago) monkey bread is biscuits rolled in sugar/spice then layered with nuts in a bunt pan and baked. Everything kinda clumps together while baking and it’s fantastic served hot.
OK, so I’m thinking, just maybe I can use the éclair/Buzz Ball pastry as a base for instead of the biscuits. Tricky, messy maybe, and soggy probably - I had to think about it for a while.
Why change up from the original? Well it’s the prospect to fold in a lot of different spices and play with the structure of the dough that intrigues me. Here is this baked item served hot that seems to defy categorization. I mean, stacked biscuits baked in a bunt pan, without frosting? That’s prime territory for me to go off and make up something really weird.
So I tried the following recipe that yields enough for 2 bunt cake pans – way more than is healthy but it’s fun to share.
Dough
Water 16 ounces (2 Cups)
Butter 12 ounces (3 Sticks)
Flour 15 ounces (3 Cups)
Salt ½ teaspoon
Baking powder ½ tsp
Cinnamon ½ teaspoon
Large eggs 8
Sugar Bath see below
Extra special items to layer between the dough
Fresh, thinly sliced bananas - maybe 3. (yellow ripe with some brown spots)
Chocolate – rough chopped, bittersweet – maybe 1 cup. I prefer rough chards of bittersweet chocolate chopped off a big block.
Unsalted Nuts – take your pick.
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F, put the rack in the middle. Spray the bunt pan(s) with non-stick spray. I bake this in a convection oven so results in a windless (conventional) oven may/will vary. I don’t have all of the answers yet b/c this is still in development.
2. Put the butter in the water and bring to a boil in a heavy bottom, large pot. I use a 6 quart pot. Add the flour all at once and stir to combine. Cook over medium heat to vent off some of the steam, only about 4-5 minutes. Only stir every 30 seconds just to move the dough around for a few seconds. A crust will form on the bottom of the pot –that’s basically the indicator that it’s as cooked as it’s gonna get before scorching.
3. Transfer the dough to a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and turn on low speed at intervals for only 2-3 seconds per interval. The objective is to release the steam without working the flour so that the gluten is minimally activated. This’ll take like 5-10 minutes total Use gentle hands/tool the whole way.
4. When no more steam comes off, add the cinnamon and baking powder (oddball ingredient here I know but something has to help the dish expand vertically in the cake pan). Add the eggs one at a time.
5. After the last egg is in, load it all into a pastry bag and pipe little squeezes into a sugar spice bath of the following. You know what, a pastry bag isn’t essential. Tearing off some dough pressing flat between your palms and dredging in the dry bath is all it takes. —-
Sugar Bath
a. Sugar ½ cup
b. Confectioner’s Sugar 2 tablespoons
c. Cinnamon 1 teaspoon
d. Cloves ½ teaspoon
e. Nutmeg ½ nut -freshly grated on the microplane
Couple of footnotes before proceeding
Check the ingredient label of your cinnamon and make sure it doesn’t say cassia. Many things labeled “cinnamon” are only cassia and aren’t so flavorful.
Nutmeg – use ONLY freshly grated. The oils of the spice are released with the grating and putting in the fresh nutmeg is a fantastic difference.
6. OK, back to the recipe. The pastry batter is prepared, you’ve started pressing flat and dredging the small balls of batter. Small = golf ball size, no larger.
7. Start the pan with some sugar bath and sugar and nuts. Dredge and lay down a layer of dough. Toss in something to break it up. Nuts are an obvious and good choice. Fresh BANANA slices (really thin) and dredged in the sugar bath are great. Chocolate. Chocolate works here. Whatever it is, USE LOW MOISTURE items.
8. So repeat the layers of dough, nuts/banana or both, dough, etc. Sprinkle in more sugar bath stuff or exotic spices (like hits of freshly ground cloves).
9. Fill the bunt pan until it’s about 2/3 full. Don’t press down, leave as much air as is possible. Remember it’s all about venting the steam in this dish.
10. Bake for 15 minutes at 400°F; reduce heat to 375°F and continue baking for 7-10 minutes. The top will be browned and there may be liquid that is bubbling rather quickly on the sides of the pan. That’s OK.
11. Remove from the oven and set on a heat resistant surface to let cool for about 5 minutes. Then invert onto a flat plate and get ready for syrup/liquid to run out all over the place. HERE’S THE PROBLEM THAT I’M WORKING ON. I don’t want all of that liquid.
12. Give it a moment to stop steaming and then grab a knife and have at it.
WRITE IN WITH ANY THOUGHTS OR IDEAS FOR TWEAKING THE RATIO OF WATER TO FLOUR TO BUTTER IN STEP ONE. I think that’s the source of the problem.
The texture of the dough after baking is fully cooked, steamed really. It’s not starchy/grainy, but it’s leaves me a bit parched so I want to change that.
I tried a few varieties of the above…
Tried apples in one version – disaster. Liquid runoff everywhere.
Tried banana/walnut/chocolate – folks loved it.
Tried banana/cinnamon and people thought the dough was apples. I’m like, how’d that happen?
End of the recipe and this long entry…